Cost Calculator

Print Cost Calculator

Drop in an STL and see what it really costs to print – filament, time, electricity, machine wear and your markup, in your currency.

  • Free
  • No sign-up
  • Private: runs on your device
Model

Slicer settings
Material
Printer
Prices

Changing the currency loads typical prices for it – edit them to match yours.

Slicer says (optional)

Enter your slicer’s numbers for an exact quote. A slicer time also tells you your printer’s real effective flow.

Your model – read on this device, never uploaded.

How to work out what a print costs

  1. Drop in your STL. It’s read on your device – volume, surface and height come straight from the model.
  2. Match your slicer settings – infill, walls, top/bottom layers and layer height all change the filament used.
  3. Pick your filament and printer, then set your prices and currency.
  4. For a firm quote, type in the grams and minutes your slicer reports. Download the cost sheet as CSV.

How the estimate works

PartHow it’s worked out
FilamentWalls (perimeters × line width) and top/bottom skins (layers × layer height) over the model’s surface, plus infill % of what’s left inside, plus your supports/brim allowance. Checked against PrusaSlicer 2.7: within ±6 %.
Print timeHeat-up + plastic ÷ your printer’s effective flow + a few seconds per layer, never faster than tiny layers allow. About ±25 % until calibrated.
ElectricityAverage power × time × your price per kWh.
Machine wearTime × your per-hour figure (printer price and spare parts spread over its life).
MarkupYour margin on top of the subtotal, for selling prints.

Designing the part too? Every other bench on 3D MakerBench makes print-ready STLs you can drop straight in here – try the Box Bench or the Grid Bench.

Frequently asked questions

How accurate is it?

Filament is worked out from your model’s real shape – walls, top and bottom layers and infill – and lands within about ±6 % of PrusaSlicer on our test shapes. Print time is harder to predict without slicing, so treat it as ±25 % until you calibrate it (see below). For a firm quote, type in the grams and minutes your slicer shows – the calculator then uses those.

How do I make the time estimate match my printer?

Slice any one part, type the slicer’s print time into “Slicer says – minutes”, and the page shows your printer’s effective flow. Put that number into “Effective flow” and clear the slicer box: estimates for other parts will now match your printer much more closely.

Is my file uploaded anywhere?

No. The STL is read by your browser on your own device; nothing is sent to a server.

What is “effective flow”?

The average amount of plastic your printer really lays down per second over a whole print – slow outer walls, small layers and travel included. It is much lower than the top speed on the box: around 3 mm³/s for a classic bed-slinger and 6–10 mm³/s for a modern fast printer.

What does machine wear cover?

A share of the printer’s price and its spare parts (nozzles, belts, build plates) per hour of printing. A $600 printer that lasts 3,000 hours is about $0.20 per hour, plus parts.

My STL is not watertight – does that matter?

The volume of a model with holes in its surface can be wrong, so the filament estimate can be too. Repair it in your slicer or with a mesh-repair tool, or use the grams your slicer reports.